OPERA, BALLET & CONTEMPORARY DANCE in Paris

Opéra Bastille

"I have always believed that opera is a planet where the muses work together, join hands and celebrate all the arts." Franco Zeffirelli (b. 1922), Italian stage and film director. "The Opera is obviously the first draft of a fine spectacle; it suggests the idea of one." Jean de La Bruyère (1645-96), French writer, moralist.

In 1989, the Bicentennial of the French Revolution was marked by the inauguration of the Opéra Bastille, Mitterand's pet project and subject of the most virulent sequence of disputes and resignations of any of the grands projets. Almost filling the entire block between rues de Lyon, Charenton, and Moreau, this bloated building has totally altered the place de la Bastille.

The Colonne de Juillet, which commemorates the later July Revolution of 1830, is no longer a pivotal landmark; in fact, it's easy to miss it altogether when dazzled by the nighttime glare of lights emanating from this hideous "hippopotamus in a bathtub", as one perceptive critic put it. The building might have been excusable as a new terminal building for the airport at Roissy, but here, in the capital's most symbolic square, it's an outrage. Internally, of course, the acoustics and stage vision of its 2700-seat auditorium are unrivaled — to get a seat you need to reserve months in advance.

Opéra Bastille

More than filling the site of the former Gare de Vincennes, the opera's construction also destroyed no mean amount of low-rent housing, and — as a result — the quartier de la Bastille is now trendier than Les Halles. The glass-and-metal paneled building was a product of an international design competition, won by Carlos Ott, a young Canadian born in Uruguay. Unfortunately, the specifications given to competitors required such sheer mass, that the bulky result could not possibly strike a harmonious note with the architectural context of its neighbors.

Originally touted as a venue which would offer world-class-quality "opera for the masses" at a reasonable price, the Opéra has been plagued by musico-political infighting since its inception. Conductors came and left. There have been technical problems maneuvering the eleborate sets. Opera fans couldn't get used to the "surtitles" on a screen over the stage. Director Pierre Bergé ousted the star musical director, Daniel Barenboim, and replaced him with a relatively unknown Korean director, who is charged with living up to the Opéra's lofty and somewhat contradictory ideals. But now the National Opera has settled into its new home, and — under the baton of conductor James Conlon — the productions are both popular and critically acclaimed. The site's multi-functional performance space also hosts various concert and dance programs.

Location: Place de la Bastille, 75012 Paris. Métro: Bastille. Phone: 01-44-73-13-00 (or 01-43-43-96-96 for recorded information). Web site: http://www.opera-de-paris.fr

Opéra Garnier

The sumptuous and prestigious Paris Opera building, designed by Charles Garnier in 1861 and completed in 1875, is one of the largest theatre venues in the world. A lavish epitaph to the manic architectural activities of the Second Empire under Napoleon III, and aptly described as a "triumph of molded pastry," it lent a suitable image to the frivolity and materialism of the so-called naughty Eighties and Nineties.

Opéra Garnier

The sheer mass of its stage — 11,000 square meters (or 118,404 square feet), with room for 450 players — seems to dwarf the respectable 2156-seat capacity auditorium, whose ceiling was painted in 1964 by Marc Chagall. At the Musée d'Orsay, one may view a complete slice-away maquette (model) of this amazingly ornate edifice, but anyone with an architectural gilt complex should make the pilgrimage to the glimmering marble-and-onyx Grand Staircase.

	Dancer (artist unknown) BUY THIS PRINT

When the emperor and empress were presented with the model, the latter is reputed to have questioned, "What is this style? It's not a style. It's not Greek, it's not Louis XVI." Garnier allegedly replied, "No, those styles have had their day. This style is Napoleon III, and you complain?"

In fact, the Opéra was constructed by the grand bourgeois more as a stage for self-display: its vestibules, galleries, stairs, anterooms, and other areas are much vaster than the mere auditorium for the select high society in attendance. Here one could stroll, step, sip, chat, ogle, and parade oneself in lengthy intermissions. That was the point, after all: the operatic performance itself was an intermission between obligatory social strutting. The personalities on view in the foyer and on the Grand Staircase were considered as important as the artists on stage singing Faust or La Traviata.

"Napoleon wanted to turn Paris into Rome under the Caesars, only with louder music and more marble. And it was done. His architects gave him the Arc de Triomphe and the Madeleine. His nephew Napoleon III wanted to turn Paris into Rome with Versailles piled on top, and it was done. His architects gave him the Paris Opera, an addition to the Louvre, and miles of new boulevards." Tom Wolfe (b. 1931), U.S. journalist, author.

A few statistics are in order: the Opéra is 56m (185ft) high, 172m (568ft) long, and 101m (333ft) wide. The main chandelier weighs in at six and a half tons, while 19km (12 miles) of halls and corridors wind over several levels. It took 13 painters, 73 sculptors, and 14 plasterers and stucco specialists to achieve the opulent decor. The structure is built on top of an underground lake and stream, which persist beneath its cellars. The tale for the classic horror movie, The Phantom of the Opera, was set here. For an entry fee, you can stroll around the interior at your leisure (except occasionally during rehearsals). The Musée de l'Opéra, containing a few paintings and theatrical mementos, is unremarkable.

Since the opening of the Opéra Bastille, the Opéra Garnier has devoted its repertoire exclusively to ballet. Though its productions are internationally renowned for their quality, they tend to remain on the traditional side of contemporary dance. Previously directed by the fiery Rudolf Nureyev, who walked out in 1990 in a cloud of controversy, the company is now run by the youthful danseur étoile Patrick Dupond.

The Ballet de l'Opéra de Paris and the Opéra National de Paris schedule some performances here and some at the Opéra de la Bastille. In both venues, reduced ticket prices may be available at the box office 15 minutes before performance time for students and people under 25 or over 65.

Location: Place de l'Opéra, 75009 Paris. Métro: Opéra. RER: Auber. Phone: 01-40-01-23-34 or 01-47-42-53-71 or 01-40-01-22-63. Unguided tours: daily 10 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Admission: Adults - € 7, students & under 19 - € 4. Box Office Hours: 10 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. daily. Web site: http://www.opera-de-paris.fr

Théâtre Musical de Paris (Théâtre du Châtelet)

Located at a hectic central crossroads, the place du Châtelet lies between the Pont au Change (which crosses to the Ile de la Cité) and the boulevard de Sébastopol. Once the site of an imposing fortress, Châtelet is known today for its vast underground métro station, where all lines and street performers seem to meet. Two identical theatres flank the square, whose center is marked by a sphinx-endowed fountain, erected in 1808, commemorating Napoleon's victory in Egypt.

These theatres were built by Davioud in 1862, and each now leads a separate and even rival existence. The Châtelet concentrates mainly on opera and classical music, with occasional ballet, and usually has a rich program of international performers. (It recently acquired an annex in Les Halles, the Auditorium, where more unusual or obscure music is performed.) The other theatre, previously named the Sarah Bernhardt and now known as the Théâtre de la Ville, offers top names in contemporary dance, innovative French theatre, and evening concerts of jazz or world music.

Before the Bastille Opera opened, and with the Garnier's transition to an all-dance programme, the TMP was the only Parisian venue offering a complete programme of high-quality opera. Despite the arrival of such a massive rival, the TMP has continued its ambitious schedule of progressive, well-made productions. Address: 1, place du Châtelet, 75001 Paris; phone: 01-40-28-28-98; fax: 01-42-36-89-75; Métro/RER: Châtelet.

"Music, in performance, is a type of sculpture. The air in the performance is sculpted into something."

Frank Zappa (b. 1940), U.S. rock musician.

THE PARIS METRO

"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a
young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your
life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."
— Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961), U.S. author.

Since Paris is such a compact city (roughly 6 miles across), much of it can be covered on foot — especially the primary sightseeing spots in the city's center. There will be times, however, when a métro or bus ride is unavoidable — and even welcome.

Wooden Métro cars placed
in service July, 1900
© Guillaume Potier
from Le Métro Parisien
(unofficial site)

History of the Métro

Evidence of plans to build the métropolitain (or the Nécropolitain, as it was dubbed by one wit) existed as early as 1845, though the first line was not completed until July 19, 1900. (Line 1, as it is still called, ran from Porte de Vincennes to Porte Maillot; it has since been extended — from Château de Vincennes to La Défense.) Following the construction of the Eiffel Tower by eleven years, this elegant transportation system stole the show, and remains to this day a model of efficient public transportation.

While the engineer Fulgence Bienvenüe was in charge of construction, architect Hector Guimard is credited for the charming and elaborately sculpted Art Nouveau entrances. The system boasts 211 km (131 miles) of track and 16 lines, shuttling 3500 cars on a precise schedule between 298 stations (not including RER stations), 87 of these offering connections between lines. It is said that every building in Paris is within 500 meters (3/10 mile) of a métro station. Roughly 6 million people per day patronize the métro, which employs over 15,000.

The transit authority which operates and maintains the city's métro, parts of the RER (express trains), an extensive bus system, and three tram lines is called Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens. The RATP was created on March 21, 1948, by combining the assets of the Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitain de Paris (CMP) and the Société des Transports en Commun de la Région Parisienne (STCRP).

Station Design

Monument aux morts, Richelieu-Drouot
métro station platform (line 8)

Some of the métro stations are worth a visit in their own right. For example, the stop for the Louvre (line 1) gives one the impression that the train has pulled into the Museum itself: the immaculate marble walls are lined with exhibits and replicas of art works, with glass cases containing various sculptures.

On a platform of the Richelieu-Drouot station (line 8) is a war memorial, carved in black marble by sculptor Carlo Sarrabezolles in 1931. It is dedicated to the agents of the metropolitan railway who died in service for France during World War I.

The Arts et Metiers (line 11) station's platforms were redesigned in 1994 by Belgian comic book artist François Schuiten. The ceiling and walls are clad with riveted copper, punctuated with faux portholes — reminiscent of a Jules Verne science fiction novel.

On line 13, Varenne offers exhibits from the nearby Rodin Museum (including a replica of The Thinker), while Liège is paneled with beautiful tiles. Abbesses (line 12) features elaborate murals in its 7-story spiral staircase descending beneath one of the more elaborate of Art Nouveau entrances.

Abesses Porte Dauphine 1 Porte Dauphine 2 mural 2 mural 3 mural 4 mural 5 mural 6 mural 7 The Thinker Arts et Métiers porthole 2 porthole 3

Travel Tips

Interior of a Sprague-Thomson first-class car,
seen during a special outing on 24 March 2007
(line 12) — note the leather seats

Though this author had to play the "dumb tourist" to avoid being severely fined by a contrôleur for riding in a first class car with a second-class ticket many years ago, the métro system — in a rare display of egalitarianism — did away with first class cars in August 1991.

A word of caution: though a single-fare ticket is valid for an entire continuous trip — including connections — be sure to keep your ticket until you leave the system at your destination; being caught without it means an instant fine of €35, payable in cash on the spot (unless you wish to acquaint yourself intimately with the French judicial system).

While Paris has a lower incidence of violent crime than most major cities, it is wise to keep your wits about you (particularly in the crowded venue of a métro station) and guard against pick-pockets, whose scams can be particularly creative at times. Perhaps as a testament to the Artful Dodger and Fagan's pick-pocketing ragamuffins in Oliver, the operatives ply their scam in pairs — frequently on the escalators on the way up to street level: One will stop suddenly at the top exit, as though he's dropped something; while you try to avoid running over him, you're jostled from the rear by the second one, who lifts your wallet.

It's recommended that gentlemen carry their wallets in their jacket's inner pocket, rather than in a rear pants pocket. Likewise, ladies should hold their purses in hand, instead of slung by their strap from the shoulders. (Thieves commonly cut the strap of a dangling purse with a utility knife.)

Should you happen to see everyone leaving a packed métro station following an announcement in French on the public address system, chances are you are witnessing one of their periodic strikes (or grèves). These manifestations occur from time to time when the unions are displeased with government, or during elections. Look at it this way: you'll get a chance to explore sections of Paris you might otherwise have only passed underground!

Maps & Directions

Métro automatique,
ligne Météor.
Station: Gare de Lyon
© F. de La Mure / M.A.E.

Signage in Paris métro stations is abundant and easily followed: every station offers a big plan of the network outside the entrance and several inside. Lines are color-coded and numbered, and are also named according to the city gate — or porte — at the end of the line.

For example, Line 4 running to the north will be indicated as going in the direction of Porte de Clignancourt, while southbound would be Porte d'Orléans. (Some lines may end a few stops beyond the Periphérique, into neighboring suburbs.) Numerous interchanges (correspondances) make it possible to travel throughout the city in a more or less straight line. Châtelet has the longest interconnecting passageway between lines, with a 600-foot long moving sidewalk.

Free maps are also available at most stations, which provide the basics for navigation. If you want detailed breakdowns, we recommend the following, which are available at most newsstands and bookshops:

• Tout Paris par Arrondissement. Small spiral-bound note-book, with index of streets, detailed maps of each arrondissement, and a list of useful addresses. Editions Blay Foldex, priced around € 6.
• Paris Classique par Arrondissement. Pocket-sized, with fold-out map as well as more detailed maps of each arrondissement, and index of streets. Editions L'Indispensable, priced around € 9.

For the latest in subway technology, try the express stations' computerized routefinders: at the touch of a button, you'll be shown four alternative routes to your selected destination, on foot or by public transport.

Online Route Finder

The RATP web site offers an excellent tool (in English or French) to assist in planning your route(s) throughout Paris and its suburbs. Using their convenient form, merely enter the starting and destination points (either by street address, subway stop, or even by monument — such as Tour Eiffel), travel date & time, type of transport desired (bus, rail, tram), and personal preferences. The system will then produce a map suitable for printing, detailed text instructions (lines, stops, and transfers where applicable), estimated travel time, and a button to plan your return trip.

Airports of Paris (Part 2)

 

Orly Airport

Orly Airport (ORY) is located midway between the towns of Orly and Rungis on the southern edge of the department of Val-de-Marne (94), bordering Essonne (91), in Ile-de-France (see map).

Orly Airport complex (click to enlarge) The distance from Orly to central Paris (75001) is roughly 19 km or 12 miles (consult travel times for each arrondissement). From Orly to Roissy/CDG is approximately 41 km (26 miles), and Orly to Disneyland is about 49 km (30 miles). Transport to and from Orly There are a number of options for transferring from Orly to the City of Paris, or to Roissy/CDG for connections with international flights. A few will also offer transport to certain suburbs and/or Disneyland area hotels. Taxis Since Orly is so close to Paris, taxis can be a quick — if somewhat expensive — way to go. We do not recommend this method at rush hour, since fares can mount quickly while stuck in traffic! The rates, which are regulated by the Paris Prefect of Police, vary according to the time of day and the zone of travel (urban, suburban, and beyond). In normal traffic and excluding supplements, expect a fare between Orly Airport and Paris to range from €30 to €45, depending on the arrondissement. In addition to the metered amount, there is a supplement of about €1 for each piece of luggage, as well as €2.70 for a fourth passenger. Families traveling with infants should keep in mind that taxis will not have a child seat available. When you phone for a taxi to return from Paris back to the airport, the meter starts running from the point where the taxi was dispatched — which could be anywhere in the city. Consequently, the fare showing on the meter may already be €7-10 by the time you board the vehicle at your hotel. It is your responsibility to have the correct amount of money (in Euros) for the fare. The use of credit cards in Parisian taxis is rare, and personal checks are usually not accepted. It is also customary to tip the driver about 10% of the fare, if service was good and the cab is clean. Shared and Private Shuttle Vans An affordable alternative to the high cost of taxis and other private transportation, various airport shuttle companies offer air-conditioned, non-smoking, 7- and 8-passenger minivans with comfortable seating and ample cargo space. cargo minivan1 minivan2 minivan3 Volkswagen minivan — shared or private shuttle. Also available, for private transfers only: 9-15 pax minibus & 16-49 pax coach. (click to see other views) Courteous English-speaking drivers will assist you with your luggage, then drive you safely from either Orly terminal directly to your hotel or other address in Paris. Some companies also provide transport to outlying suburbs and the Disneyland-Paris Resort area. While Orlybus and Air France shuttle fares may be somewhat cheaper, they do oblige you to walk, navigate the Métro with your luggage, or take a taxi from their limited drop-off points in Paris to your hotel, thus increasing your final cost and time to your destination. By contrast, the minivan shuttles provide "door-to-door" service, combining convenience and the shortest travel time at reasonable rates. Ideal for couples, small groups, or families with children (some operators offer child seats for added safety) — these shuttles plan their passenger loads so that no more than 3 stops are made on any one trip into the city (private shuttles are also available). Advance reservations are required. You will be asked to provide your arrival time, flight number, and airline; the operator monitors your flight's arrival status by Internet, assuring that a driver will be there to greet you — even if your flight is delayed. Orlyval + RER-B (express commuter train) The airport is indirectly connected to Paris downtown by the Orlyval (automatic métro), a short 8-minute hop to the RER station 'Antony' in the suburb of Arceuil. From there you can take the RER-B rail line (regional métro system) north, directly into the heart of Paris. The journey takes about 35 minutes to reach the Châtelet–Les Halles RER/métro complex (1st arrondissement). There are seven stops on RER-B within Paris; four of these offer connections (fr. correspondances) to certain métro lines, as follows: Cité-Universitaire Denfert-Rochereau (métro lines 4 & 6) Port-Royal Luxembourg St-Michel Notre-Dame (métro lines 4 & 10; RER line C) Châtelet–Les Halles (métro lines 1, 4, 7, 11, & 14; RER lines A & D) Gare du Nord (métro lines 2, 4, & 5; RER lines D & E) Orlyval operates between 6:00 a.m. and 11:00 p.m., leaving every 4 to 7 minutes from each Orly terminal (Orly Sud and Orly Ouest). Tickets for this service can be purchased in all métro and RER stations, and also at a special Orlyval sales desk in Orly airport. The one-way Orlyval fare is €7.60 for adults and €3.80 for children (ages 4-10) just to reach the 'Antony' station, or €9.85 for adults and €4.90 for children to head into the center of Paris — rather expensive in light of the short distance involved! Another valid fare, when purchased for Zones 1-4, is the Paris Visite pass (1, 2, 3 or 5 days) — a much better choice if you'll be traveling often on the métro and/or buses during your stay. Transport between Orly and Roissy/CDG airports: To get to Orly airport from CDG airport, take the RER-B (direction Massy Palaiseau or Saint-Rémy-lès-Chevreuse) to Antony station, and then take the Orlyval. The combined fare is €16,90 for adults and €10,05 for children. Once again, the Paris Visite pass (Zones 1-5) is valid for this trip. A note of caution — Senior citizens, travelers with heavy luggage, disabled persons, or families with small children in tow are forewarned that navigating from Orly to one's hotel in Paris may require considerable effort: It requires a first transfer from the Orlyval shuttle to an RER-B train at Antony station. A second transfer from subterranean RER platforms to connecting métro lines in Paris can involve several steep sets of stairs and some very long walks, particularly at the gargantuan Châtelet–Les Halles complex. Since RER B does not connect directly with five of the métro lines (3, 8, 9, 12, 13), a third transfer is required to reach hotels situated near those lines. Orly Bus More economical than the Orlyval is the Orlybus, which goes from Orly-Sud and Orly-Ouest to the métro/RER station at Denfert-Rochereau (14e arrondissement), with stops at Jourdan Tombe Issoire, Parc Montsouris, and Alésia - René Coty (all in the 14e). On the route back to the airport, the stops are Dareau - Saint-Jacques and Porte de Gentilly. Hours of operation are 5:35 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., with departures every 15-20 minutes, and travel time is about 30 minutes. The one-way Orlybus fare from the airport to Paris is €6.40. Other valid fares (when purchased for Zones 1-4) include the Paris Visite pass (1, 2, 3 or 5 days), the weekly or monthly Navigo Découverte, and the yearly Imagine R (on weekdays only). Paris City Bus The bus lines 183, 285, and Noctilien all serve the Orly airport south terminal (Orly Sud). Bus #183 travels to the Porte de Choisy métro station (13e arrondissement), while bus #285 goes to the Villejuif (94800, just south of Paris) Louis Aragon station; both of these stops are served by métro Line 7. The last departures from Orly Sud are as follows (timetables are subject to change): Bus 183 — 9:40 p.m. (see PDF route map) Bus 285 — 1:30 a.m. (see PDF route map) The Noctilien service runs only at night from 12:30 to 5:30 a.m., 7 days a week. Line N31 heads from Orly to the Gare de Lyon (12e arrondissement), where one can transfer to either Line N01 or N02 and continue to any of three other train stations (Gare Montparnasse, Gare St-Lazare, Gare de l'Est). Fares for both day and night buses depend on the number of zones traversed during one's trip. For example, a one-way fare from Orly (Zone 4) to central Paris (Zone 1) requires three tickets, which cost €1.60 each (total €4.80). Connecting with a different bus also requires a new fare. In lieu of buying individual tickets, certain passes may also be used for the network of day or night buses (when purchased for Zones 1-4). These include the Paris Visite pass (1, 2, 3 or 5 days), the weekly or monthly Navigo Découverte, and the yearly Imagine R (on weekdays only). Hotels at Orly We do not recommend that you stay in a hotel at Orly. After all, it would be a pity to spend a lot of your time each day commuting from your base to the sights in the City of Light. Instead, we suggest you have a look at our exclusive selection of typically Parisian hotels. On the other hand, if you are planning to attend a business meeting at or near the airport, and will be flying out again immediately thereafter — then you might wish to consider staying at the Hilton or Ibis hotels within the Orly airport complex, or the 3-star Mercure hotel just a half-mile away. (Mercure offers a complimentary shuttle service to and from the airport's terminals. Rooms are air-conditioned and soundproofed; other amenities include six meeting rooms and wireless Internet access.) Services at Orly Lost & Found, Orly Sud: +33 (0)1 49 75 34 10; Orly Ouest: +33 (0)1 49 75 42 34 Orly Airport Information: +33 (0)1 49 75 15 15 Web site: aeroportsdeparis.fr. If you have other questions regarding public bus or rail transportation (including the Paris métro), you can also call the RATP English Information Center at +33 8 92 68 41 14; the call will cost you €0.34 per minute in France.

Airports of Paris (Part 1)

	Introduction Aérogare (Terminal) 2 at CDG Paris is principally served by two international airports: Roissy/Charles de Gaulle (CDG) to the north of the city, and Orly (ORY) to the south. Together, these airports welcome 75 million passengers annually, with flights to 500 cities in 132 countries. Most international flights arrive at Roissy/CDG, while domestic French flights generally arrive at Orly. Both CDG and Orly offer extensive airport facilities — including duty-free shops, car rentals, restaurants, hotels, post offices, and ground transport into the city center. A third international airport, Beauvais-Tillé (BVA), has gained increasing popularity with some European travelers in recent years, handling over 2 million passengers during 2007. Located 84 km/52 miles from Paris in the department of Oise (province of Picardy), Beauvais primarily serves as a hub for budget airlines hailing from Ireland, the U.K., and a few other western European countries. The smallest airport near Paris — Le Bourget (LBG) — has been closed to international traffic since 1977, and to regional traffic since 1980. Today, it is only used for general aviation (business jets) as well as air shows. It is perhaps most famous as the landing site for Charles Lindbergh's historic solo transatlantic crossing in 1927, and was the only airport serving Paris until Orly was built in 1932. Charles de Gaulle Airport complex (click to enlarge) Charles de Gaulle Airport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), which began service on 8 March 1974, is located near Roissy-en-France. The airport complex actually straddles the junction of three departments: Val d'Oise (95), Seine-et-Marne (77), and Seine-Saint-Denis (93) in Ile-de-France (see map). Airport terminals The airport has three main terminals (fr. Aérogares): Terminal 1 The oldest terminal (opened in 1974) was built with an avant-garde design which is maintained today, even though interior sections of the structure have been renovated and modernized. It consists of a single main building for check-in and baggage claim, with 7 satellites for arrivals and departures. Each satellite can handle about 5 aircraft at any given time. Underground walkways with moving sidewalks connect the satellites to the main building. Terminal 2 Terminal 2 was originally built exclusively for Air France flights, but has since been expanded significantly and now also hosts other airlines. It consists of multiple terminals (or halls) joined together by ground-level or below-ground passageways. The seven terminals consist of 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2E, 2F and the separate 2G (which opened March 2009). Terminal 3 This terminal — formerly called T9 — hosts charter and low-cost airlines. Consisting of a single hall, it is located 1 km/0.62 mi. from Terminal 1, but the walking path is 3 km/1.9 mi. long. The RER and CDG-VAL trains are at a distance of 300 m/980 ft. on foot. Navigating between terminals Passengers arriving on different flights at separate terminals who wish to meet each other, and those who will be taking an RER-B commuter express to Paris or a TGV train to other destinations in France, may board the free 24-hour VAL (Véhicule Automatique Léger) shuttle train which makes frequent runs between terminals 1, 2, 3 and the rail stations — plus two remote car parks — within 8 minutes. While it is possible to walk the length of Terminal 2 from Halls A&B through E&F (using the moving sidewalks in some places), the distance is significant and can take more than 15 minutes; 2G is located 2.5 km/1.6 mi. away from terminals 2A-2F. Depending on your stamina (and luggage), you may find it more practical to take one of the free TransRoissy shuttle buses: N1 connects terminals 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2E, 2F, and the RER/TGV rail station (see route map); N2 connects terminals 2E & 2F with the remote terminal 2G (see route map); and N3 connects terminals 2C & 2D with both the RER/TGV rail station and the remote terminal 2G (see route map). Baggage handling Upon approaching the baggage claim areas, be sure to avail yourself of the free luggage carts — which are generally parked next to the baggage carrousels or conveyor belts. They will save you considerable effort in navigating to the exits! Note: as a precaution against terrorist incidents, French airports have eliminated all short-term baggage lockers. Seeking assistance Many airport staff can speak English; they are friendly when approached in a courteous manner (say "Bonjour, Madame/Monsieur!" first), and will give advice when needed. In each terminal there is a clearly marked Information desk where personnel can assist travelers with any questions or directions, and where one can pick up bus or train schedules. Orly Beauvais Transport to and from Roissy/CDG Transportation between CDG and Paris — or to Orly Airport for connecting flights throughout Europe — is possible by car, taxi, bus, RER (train), privately-operated shuttles, and limousines. A few of these options will also offer transport to certain suburbs and/or Disneyland area hotels. Your own choices may be influenced not only by your budget, but also by how much luggage you are carrying and your ultimate destination. The distance from CDG to central Paris (75001) is roughly 28 km or 17 miles (consult travel times for each arrondissement). From CDG to Orly is approximately 41 km (26 miles), and CDG to Disneyland is about 40 km (25 miles). Limousines Limousines may be frequently found near each exit from the terminals, and though the chauffeurs may try very hard to seduce you with their charm, you can expect to pay €100-200 to ride in style. A few words of caution are in order: Finding a reputable, licensed limo at the curbside is not guaranteed, as there are a number of "gypsy" drivers who operate at the airports without authorization or proper insurance. Also be aware that French transportation laws prohibit licensed operators from soliciting you to use their services. Should you choose this method of transport, be certain that you have agreed to the exact final cost to your destination, before allowing the first bag to be loaded. Preferably, you would have reserved your ride in advance, through a limousine company's web site or by phone, and received an e-mail or faxed confirmation of your fare. Taxis Due to their unpredictable cost, we recommend that you avoid taking a taxi. Since the fare depends on traffic, taxis can become rather expensive — particularly during the morning rush hour, when the A1 freeway becomes a congested nightmare. (Most overnight flights from North America tend to arrive during this timeframe.) A Taxi Parisien rooftop sign. (click to enlarge) A taxi ride into Paris can take between 40 minutes to 2 hours, costing between €34 (minimum) and €60 or more — depending on the arrondissement. The CDG airport's web site (www.adp.fr) estimates around €50 during daytime hours, plus a surcharge for evenings after 7 p.m., Sundays and/or holidays. In addition to the metered fare, there is a supplement of about €1 for each piece of luggage, as well as €2.70 for a fourth passenger. Families traveling with infants should keep in mind that taxis will not have a child seat available. When you phone for a taxi to return from Paris back to the airport, the meter starts running from the point where the taxi was dispatched — which could be anywhere in the city. Consequently, the fare showing on the meter may already be €7-10 by the time you board the vehicle at your hotel. It is your responsibility to have the correct amount of money (in Euros) for the fare. The use of credit cards in Parisian taxis is rare, and personal checks are usually not accepted. It is also customary to tip the driver about 10% of the fare, if service was good and the cab is clean. Shared and Private Shuttle Vans An affordable alternative to the high cost of taxis and other private transportation, various airport shuttle companies offer air-conditioned, non-smoking, 7- and 8-passenger minivans with comfortable seating and ample cargo space. cargo minivan1 minivan2 minivan3 Volkswagen minivan — shared or private shuttle. Also available, for private transfers only: 9-15 pax minibus & 16-49 pax coach. (click to see other views) Courteous English-speaking drivers will assist you with your luggage, then drive you safely from any CDG terminal directly to your hotel or other address in Paris. Some companies also provide transport to outlying suburbs and the Disneyland-Paris Resort area. While Roissybus and Air France shuttle fares may be somewhat cheaper, they do oblige you to walk, navigate the Métro with your luggage, or take a taxi from their limited drop-off points in Paris to your hotel, thus increasing your final cost and time to your destination. By contrast, the minivan shuttles provide "door-to-door" service, combining convenience and the shortest travel time at reasonable rates. Ideal for couples, small groups, or families with children (some operators offer child seats for added safety) — these shuttles plan their passenger loads so that no more than 3 stops are made on any one trip into the city (private shuttles are also available). Advance reservations are required. You will be asked to provide your arrival time, flight number, and airline; the operator monitors your flight's arrival status by Internet, assuring that a driver will be there to greet you — even if your flight is delayed. Roissy Bus The regional public transportation authority, RATP (Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens), offers a special bus service between Roissy/CDG and 9, rue Scribe (9e arrondissement) near the famous Opéra Garnier, in the heart of Paris. Running between 6:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m., the Roissybus departs every 15 minutes (or 20 minutes after 7 p.m.), and the journey lasts approximately 45 to 60 minutes. The bus stops at the following airport terminals: Aérogare/Terminal 1 Aérogare/Terminal 2 Aérogare/Terminal 3 (formerly T9) The one-way Roissybus fare is €9.10. Other valid fares — when purchased for Zones 1-5 — include the Paris Visite pass (1, 2, 3 or 5 days), the weekly or monthly Navigo Découverte, and the yearly Imagine R student pass (valid on weekdays only). Paris City Bus The bus lines 350 (terminus Gare de l'Est, 10e arrondissement) and 351 (terminus Nation, 11e & 12e arrondissements) serve the airport terminals 1 and 2. Both the 350 and 351 run every day of the week, but not at night. Their last departures are as follows: Bus 350 — 9:30 p.m. from Roissy/CDG (see PDF route map) Bus 351 — 8:20 p.m. from Roissy/CDG (see PDF route map) Though the travel times for these buses exceed those of the other public transportation options (due to numerous stops made between Roissy and the terminus), they are by far the most economical choice. Furthermore, they afford a leisurely and fairly pleasant view of Paris neighborhoods passing along the route. If your Paris accommodations are located in the 18e arrondissement (Montmartre), or the 9e/10e near the Gare du Nord or Gare de l'Est, then Bus #350 will drop you closest to your destination. Likewise, if you will be staying in the 20e close to Porte de Montreuil or in the 11e/12e near Place de la Nation and the Cimetière du Père Lachaise, then Bus #351 is your best bet. The one-way bus fare from CDG to Paris is €4.80 — or three (3) métro tickets. Other valid fares — when purchased for Zones 1-5 — include the Paris Visite pass (1, 2, 3 or 5 days), the weekly or monthly Navigo Découverte, and the yearly Imagine R student pass (weekdays only). RER-B3 (express commuter train) Roissy/CDG is served by the RER (Réseau express régional) rail line, part of the Paris métro system, toward the city and its southern suburbs. These express trains with limited stops run from 5 a.m. to 12 midnight, departing every 10-15 minutes on weekdays — somewhat less frequently on weekends and holidays. Platform of the RER station at CDG There are two RER stations within the airport complex, both of which fall within Zone 5 of the RATP's transit system (zones determine fares; the city of Paris falls within zones 1-2). A station situated midway between the 2C/2D and 2E/2F terminal buildings (see map) is the line B3 terminus ("Aéroport Charles de Gaulle 2 – TGV"); the second station ("Aéroport Charles de Gaulle 1") is situated next to terminal 3. All the airport's terminals, RER/TGV stations, and remote car parks can be reached by taking the free VAL shuttle, which has five stops. The B3 train takes about 25 minutes to reach the Gare du Nord railway station (10e arrondissement), 28 minutes to Châtelet–Les Halles (1er arrondissement), and 35 minutes to Denfert-Rochereau (14e arrondissement). There are seven stops within Paris; four of these offer connections (fr. correspondances) to certain métro and other RER lines, as follows: Gare du Nord (métro lines 2, 4, & 5; RER lines D & E) Châtelet–Les Halles (métro lines 1, 4, 7, 11, & 14; RER lines A & D) St-Michel Notre-Dame (métro lines 4 & 10; RER line C) Luxembourg Port-Royal Denfert-Rochereau (métro lines 4 & 6) Cité-Universitaire The one-way RER fare is €8.50 for adults, and €5.95 for children (ages 4-10). Other valid fares — when purchased for Zones 1-5 — include the Paris Visite pass (1, 2, 3 or 5 days), the weekly or monthly Navigo Découverte, and the yearly Imagine R student pass (weekdays only). A note of caution — Senior citizens, travelers with heavy luggage, disabled persons, or families with small children in tow are forewarned that this method of transportation may require considerable effort, when navigating from Roissy/CDG to one's hotel: Transfers from subterranean RER platforms to connecting métro lines in Paris can involve several steep sets of stairs and some very long walks, particularly at Gare du Nord and the gargantuan Châtelet–Les Halles complex. Since RER-B does not connect directly with five of the métro lines (3, 8, 9, 12, 13), a second transfer is required to reach hotels situated near those lines. TGV Train Station Charles de Gaulle airport has its own TGV — Train à Grande Vitesse, 'high-speed train' — station that is part of the LGV Interconnexion Est rail line, offering connections to various cities in France and throughout Europe. The platform is located in the same station as the RER-B3 terminus, between airport terminals 2C/2D and 2E/2F (see map). For TGV schedules and fares, visit the SNCF web site. What About Those Famous French Strikes? French political cartoon, translation: (Newspaper headline: "General Strike") "It won't last long." "What, the demonstrations, or the government?" © Erik Tartrais, artist The French are particularly well-known for their frequent labor strikes, known as les grèves, which can cripple public transportation for several days at a time. They occur at least once (and sometimes more often) every summer, and occasionally during other times of the year. During 2005, for example, transportation stoppages and slowdowns occurred 9-11 March, 1-3 June, and again 3-5 October. The RATP web site addresses this issue in its FAQ (in French only). The independent web site www.greves.org (in French only) offers helpful news coverage on transportation strikes, often providing their dates in advance, plus details on how specific rail lines will be affected. It is an invaluable resource which can aid in planning one's travel options. Of course, private transportation operators — such as the shuttle van services, taxis, and limousines — are not affected by such labor strikes. TIP: If you are aware of a strike occurring during your planned visit to Paris, we suggest reserving your transfers on a shuttle van or limousine well in advance, as demand for all private forms of transportation will be high. Birds and Other Animal Hazards at the Airport The grassy lands on which the airport is located are notorious for rabbits and hares, which can be seen by airplane passengers at certain times of the day. The airport organizes periodic hunts and captures to keep the population within manageable levels. Bird strikes are a recognized hazard in the aviation industry. Because thousands of planes are struck by birds each year, aircraft designers and airport officials do all they can to minimize the risk of accidents. Jean-Luc Briot, an ornithologist with France's Civil Aviation Administration in Paris, says French aviation authorities receive 800 impact reports from pilots annually, of which 10-15% are classified as "serious" — resulting in damage to the aircraft or flight delays. At Charles de Gaulle Airport, fixed runway speakers are used to scare birds away, according to an ADP spokesman. Airport agents stationed on each runway are equipped with flares and noisemakers that allow them to play the sounds of a bird in distress, thereby frightening other birds. As a result of such prevention measures, Air France has reduced its number of collisions by a third during the past 10 years, says Briot. Hotels at Charles de Gaulle As in most cities, the airport's hotels are not the best places to stay overnight. Unless your trip's purpose is just a quick business meeting before jetting off again, we would rather recommend that you stay at a hotel in Paris — assuming you'd like to get a flavor of the city's character and spend less time commuting from your accommodations to the sights worth seeing. Have a look at our exclusive selection of typically Parisian hotels. Services at Charles de Gaulle Lost and found: +33 (0)1 48 62 13 34 Roissy/CDG Airport Information: +33 (0)1 48 62 22 80 Web site: aeroportsdeparis.fr. If you have other questions regarding public bus or rail transportation (including the Paris métro), you can also call the RATP English Information Center at +33 8 92 68 41 14; the call will cost you €0.34 per minute in France.

PARIS — The City of Light

	"Good Americans, when they die, go to Paris." — Thomas Appleton (1812-84), U.S. author. Introduction Paris, the capital of France, is located in northern France on both banks of the Seine River, 145 km (90 mi) from the river's mouth on the English Channel. A total of 2,135,300 (2002) inhabitants live in Paris proper, and almost 11 million persons (1999) live in greater Paris (the Ile-de-France region), which is one of Europe's largest metropolitan areas. A city of world importance and the business, historic, intellectual, diplomatic, religious, educational, artistic, and tourist center of France, Paris owes its prosperity in large part to its favorable position on the Seine, which has been a major commercial artery since the Roman period. Economy       Paris coat of arms, bearing the city's motto: Fluctuat nec mergitur ("She is tossed by the waves, but is not sunk.") © Vector-Images.com Paris has been one of the major cities of Europe since the Middle Ages, but the development of the city as it exists today occurred in the second half of the 19th century. Its greatest growth came during a 40-year period after 1850, when the population doubled in size to more than 2 million; it reached a peak in 1921 (2,906,500), after which people began migrating away from the city. Since then, as homes have been replaced by offices in Paris proper, most of the growth has occurred in the suburbs, where a large portion of the blue-collar work force lives. Of a total of 2 million commuters, about half travel daily from the outlying areas to the city center, and half travel from central Paris to the suburbs. The economic activities of Paris overshadow those of any other part of France in importance and complexity. About 65 percent of the nation's bank and corporate headquarters are in the city. Much of the industry in central Paris is of the small-scale craft type, based on skill and most often family owned. Many of these industries make luxury items such as perfumes, furs, gloves, jewelry, toys, clothing, wooden articles, and other high-value goods. Book printing and publishing are major activities in central Paris. Heavier industries are situated in the suburbs. These include the manufacture of automobiles, machine tools, railroad rolling stock, electric and electronic products, chemicals, and processed foods. Construction and the production of building materials are also important. Tourism, however, is by far the city's largest source of income; it is one of Europe's leading tourist attractions. Government Paris is divided into 20 unequally sized arrondissements, or districts, each with its own mayor. Each of these is again divided into four sections. Two prefects and a mayor administer the city as a whole with the assistance of a general council. "Paris is the greatest temple ever built to material joys and the lust of the eyes." — Henry James (1843-1916), U.S. novelist. Transportation Paris is the head of barge and ship navigation on the Seine and is the fourth most important port in France (after Marseille, Le Havre, and Dunkerque). The Loire, Rhine, Rhône, Meuse, and Scheldt rivers can be reached by canals connecting with the Seine, and a large amount of the imports and exports of the city are transported via water. Total freight carried to and from the port annually amounts to 43 million U.S. tons. Paris is also a major rail, highway, and air transportation hub. Two international airports, Orly and Charles de Gaulle, as well as Le Bourget (for domestic flights), serve the city. De Gaulle ranks as the fifth busiest international airport in the world and Orly as the seventh. The city's subway system, the Métro, was opened on July 19, 1900, its first line being from Porte de Vincennes to Porte Maillot. Engineer Fulgence Bienvenüe oversaw the construction phase, while architect Hector Guimard designed the decorative Art Nouveau entrances. The system boasts 199 km (124 miles) of track and 15 lines. There are 368 stations (not including RER stations), 87 of these being interchanges between lines. A total of 3500 cars transport roughly 6 million people per day, while the system itself employs 15,000 employees (1989 statistics). Every building in Paris is within 500 meters (3/10 mile) of a métro station. The Réseau Express Régional (RER), inaugurated in the 1960s, connects the city with its outlying suburbs. "The last time I see Paris will be on the day I die. The city was inexhaustible, and so is its memory." — Elliot Harold Paul (1891-1958), U.S. author.

HISTORY OF EIFFEL TOWER

	Eiffel Tower and the Trocadéro fountains

The Eiffel {y'-ful} Tower, an immense stucture of exposed latticework supports made of puddle iron, was erected for the Paris Exposition of 1889. The Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII of England) officiated at the ceremonial opening. Of the 700 proposals submitted in a design competition, one was unanimously chosen, a radical creation from the French structural engineer Alexandre Gustave Eiffel (b. Dec. 15, 1832, d. Dec. 28, 1923), who was assisted in the design by engineers Maurice Koechlin and Emile Nouguier, and architect Stephen Sauvestre.

However, the controversial tower elicited some strong reactions, and a petition of 300 names — including those of Guy de Maupassant, Émile Zola, Charles Garnier (architect of the Opéra Garnier), and Alexandre Dumas fils — was presented to the city government, protesting its construction. The petition read, "We, the writers, painters, sculptors, architects and lovers of the beauty of Paris, do protest with all our vigour and all our indignation, in the name of French taste and endangered French art and history, against the useless and monstrous Eiffel Tower."

Nature lovers thought that it would interfere with the flight of birds over Paris. But the Eiffel Tower was admired by Rousseau, Utrillo, Chagall, and Delaunay. It was almost torn down in 1909 at the expiration of its 20-year lease, but was saved because of its antenna — used for telegraphy at that time. Beginning in 1910 it became part of the International Time Service. French radio (since 1918), and French television (since 1957) have also made use of its stature. In the 1960s, it was the subject of a wonderful study by semiologist Roland Barthes.

Eiffel Tower under construction April 1888 July 1888 December 1888 completed May 1889

Built to celebrate the science and engineering achievements of its age, soaring 300m / 984 ft. (320.75m / 1,052 ft. including antenna) and weighing 7000 tons, the structure consists of two visibly distinct parts: a base composed of a platform resting on four separate supports (called pylons or bents) and, above this, a slender tower created as the bents taper upward, rising above a second platform to merge in a unified column.

This unprecedented work, the tallest structure in the world until the Empire State Building was built about 40 years later, had several antecedents. Among them were the iron-supported railway viaducts designed by Eiffel, an arch bridge over the Douro River in Portugal with a span of 160 m (525 ft), and a design for a circular, iron-frame tower proposed by the American engineers Clarke and Reeves for the Centennial Exposition of 1876. Eiffel knew and publicly acknowledged this influence; he was no stranger to the United States, having designed the wrought-iron pylon inside Frederic Bartholdi's Statue of Liberty in 1885. Later in the same year, he had also begun work on the cupola of the Nice observatory.

Eiffel was the leading European authority on the aerodynamics of high frames (he wrote "The Resistance of the Air" in 1913). In the construction of the Eiffel Tower, the curve of the base pylons was precisely calculated so that the bending and shearing forces of the wind were progressively transformed into forces of compression, which the bents could withstand more effectively. Such was Eiffel's engineering wizardry that even in the strongest winds his tower never sways more than 4-1/2 inches. The superskyscrapers erected since 1960, such as the World Trade Center, were constructed in much the same way.

However difficult its birth may have been, the Tour Eiffel is now completely accepted by French citizens, and is internationally recognized as one of the symbols of Paris itself.

Facilities and Views

In the basements of the eastern and western pillars, one can visit the gargantuan 1899 machinery which powers the elevators, an astonishing spectacle reminiscent of a Jules Verne novel. From the Tower's three platforms — especially the topmost — the view of Paris is superb. It is generally agreed that one hour before sunset, the panorama is at its best; don't forget to bring your camera, and experiment with the f-stop settings to capture a dazzling sunset on the Seine. If you can't be there in person, then check out a Live Aerial View of Paris with TF1's webcam online: from the top of the Eiffel Tower, you can see Paris in real time, 24 hours a day, whatever the weather conditions in the French capital. To get the most out of this view of Paris, we suggest you surf their web site between 7:00 AM and 9:00 PM GMT (1:00 AM and 3:00 PM Eastern Time in the U.S.), when the City of Light is at its best.

	EIFFEL TOWER

First level: 57.63 meters (189 feet). Observatory from which to study the movements of the Eiffel Tower's summit. Kiosk presentation about the mythic painting of the Eiffel Tower. Space CINEIFFEL: offers an exceptional panorama of sights from the Tower. Souvenir shops (yes, every tourist MUST have a miniature replica). Restaurant "Altitude 95" (phone 01-45-55-20-04). Post office, with special stamps "Paris Eiffel Tower ". Panoramic gallery displaying the Monuments of Paris.

Second level: 115.73 meters (379 feet, 8 inches). Panorama of Paris. Telescopes, shops. Animated displays on the operation of the elevators. Jules Verne Restaurant (extremely expensive, reservations absolutely necessary; phone 01-45-55-61-44).

Third level: 276.13 meters (905 feet, 11 inches). Exceptional panoramic views, day or night, of Paris and its surroundings. Recently restored office, featuring wax reproductions of Gustave Eiffel and Thomas Edison in conversation (see photo. Panoramic guide displays to aid orientation. Dioramas presenting the history of this platform.

Probably the best approach to the tower is to take the Métro to the Trocadéro station and walk from the Palais de Chaillot to the Seine. Besides fabulous views, especially when the Trocadéro fountains are in full force, you get a free show from the dancers and acrobats who perform around the Palais de Chaillot. The vast green esplanade beneath the tower is the Parc du Champs-de-Mars, which extends all the way to the 18th-century École Militaire (Military Academy), at its southeast end. This formal lawn was once a parade ground for French troops.

The Eiffel Tower at night is one of the great sights of Paris and shouldn't be missed. The gold lighting highlights the delicacy of the steelwork in a way that is missed in daylight. Skip the tour buses and pickpockets on Trocadéro and head up to the École Militaire for a more tranquil view.

Interesting Facts

300 steel workers, and 2 years (1887-1889) to construct it. 15,000 iron pieces (excluding rivets). 2.5 million rivets. 40 tons of paint. 1671 steps to the top. Maximum sway at top caused by wind: 12 cm (4.75 inches). Maximum sway at top caused by metal dilation: 18 cm (7 inches). Total height in 1889: 300.51 meters (985 feet, 11 inches).

Total height with television antenna: 320.755 meters (1052 feet, 4 inches). Height varies up to 15 cm depending on temperature. Size of base area: 10,281.96 square meters (2.54 acres). Weight of foundations: 277,602 kg (306 tons). Weight of iron: 7.34 million kg (8092.2 tons). Weight of elevator systems: 946,000 kg (1042.8 tons). Total weight: 8.56 million kg (9441 tons).

Pressure on foundation: 4.1 to 4.5 kg per square centimeter, depending on pier (58.26 to 64 lbs. per square inch). Dates of construction: January 26, 1887 to March 31, 1889. Cost of construction: 7.8 million francs ($1.5 million). Total number of visitors during 1889 Exposition: 1,968,287. Total receipts during 1889 Exposition: 5,919,884 francs ($1.14 million). Total number of visitors during 2007: 6,822,000.

Eiffel Tower

During its lifetime, the Eiffel Tower has witnessed a few strange scenes, including being scaled by a mountaineer in 1954, and two Englishmen parachuting off it in 1984. In 1923, the journalist Pierre Labric (who was later to become mayor of Montmartre) rode a bicycle down from the first level; some accounts say he rode down the stairs, others suggest the exterior of one of the tower's four legs which slope outward.

Politics have also played a role in its life. During World War II, the Germans hung a sign on it that read: "Deutschland Siegt Auf Allen Fronten" ("Germany is victorious on all fronts"). In 1958, a few months before Fidel Castro's rise to power, Cuban revolutionaries hung their red-and-black flag from the first level, and, in 1979, an American from Greenpeace hung one that read: "Save the Seals". In 1989, the Tower celebrated its centennial with music and fireworks (the show lasted 89 minutes).

Operation

The Eiffel Tower is owned by the City of Paris, which has subcontracted its maintenance and daily operations since 2005 to SETE (Société d'Exploitation de la Tour Eiffel), a public utility.

More than 500 people bring the Eiffel Tower to life each day. About one half are employed by SETE, the others are concessionaires (souvenir boutiques, restaurants, telescope operations, ATMs, behind-the-scene tours) and civil service employees (police, fire personnel, post office, weather).