THE PARIS METRO

"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a
young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your
life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."
— Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961), U.S. author.

Since Paris is such a compact city (roughly 6 miles across), much of it can be covered on foot — especially the primary sightseeing spots in the city's center. There will be times, however, when a métro or bus ride is unavoidable — and even welcome.

Wooden Métro cars placed
in service July, 1900
© Guillaume Potier
from Le Métro Parisien
(unofficial site)

History of the Métro

Evidence of plans to build the métropolitain (or the Nécropolitain, as it was dubbed by one wit) existed as early as 1845, though the first line was not completed until July 19, 1900. (Line 1, as it is still called, ran from Porte de Vincennes to Porte Maillot; it has since been extended — from Château de Vincennes to La Défense.) Following the construction of the Eiffel Tower by eleven years, this elegant transportation system stole the show, and remains to this day a model of efficient public transportation.

While the engineer Fulgence Bienvenüe was in charge of construction, architect Hector Guimard is credited for the charming and elaborately sculpted Art Nouveau entrances. The system boasts 211 km (131 miles) of track and 16 lines, shuttling 3500 cars on a precise schedule between 298 stations (not including RER stations), 87 of these offering connections between lines. It is said that every building in Paris is within 500 meters (3/10 mile) of a métro station. Roughly 6 million people per day patronize the métro, which employs over 15,000.

The transit authority which operates and maintains the city's métro, parts of the RER (express trains), an extensive bus system, and three tram lines is called Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens. The RATP was created on March 21, 1948, by combining the assets of the Compagnie du Chemin de Fer Métropolitain de Paris (CMP) and the Société des Transports en Commun de la Région Parisienne (STCRP).

Station Design

Monument aux morts, Richelieu-Drouot
métro station platform (line 8)

Some of the métro stations are worth a visit in their own right. For example, the stop for the Louvre (line 1) gives one the impression that the train has pulled into the Museum itself: the immaculate marble walls are lined with exhibits and replicas of art works, with glass cases containing various sculptures.

On a platform of the Richelieu-Drouot station (line 8) is a war memorial, carved in black marble by sculptor Carlo Sarrabezolles in 1931. It is dedicated to the agents of the metropolitan railway who died in service for France during World War I.

The Arts et Metiers (line 11) station's platforms were redesigned in 1994 by Belgian comic book artist François Schuiten. The ceiling and walls are clad with riveted copper, punctuated with faux portholes — reminiscent of a Jules Verne science fiction novel.

On line 13, Varenne offers exhibits from the nearby Rodin Museum (including a replica of The Thinker), while Liège is paneled with beautiful tiles. Abbesses (line 12) features elaborate murals in its 7-story spiral staircase descending beneath one of the more elaborate of Art Nouveau entrances.

Abesses Porte Dauphine 1 Porte Dauphine 2 mural 2 mural 3 mural 4 mural 5 mural 6 mural 7 The Thinker Arts et Métiers porthole 2 porthole 3

Travel Tips

Interior of a Sprague-Thomson first-class car,
seen during a special outing on 24 March 2007
(line 12) — note the leather seats

Though this author had to play the "dumb tourist" to avoid being severely fined by a contrôleur for riding in a first class car with a second-class ticket many years ago, the métro system — in a rare display of egalitarianism — did away with first class cars in August 1991.

A word of caution: though a single-fare ticket is valid for an entire continuous trip — including connections — be sure to keep your ticket until you leave the system at your destination; being caught without it means an instant fine of €35, payable in cash on the spot (unless you wish to acquaint yourself intimately with the French judicial system).

While Paris has a lower incidence of violent crime than most major cities, it is wise to keep your wits about you (particularly in the crowded venue of a métro station) and guard against pick-pockets, whose scams can be particularly creative at times. Perhaps as a testament to the Artful Dodger and Fagan's pick-pocketing ragamuffins in Oliver, the operatives ply their scam in pairs — frequently on the escalators on the way up to street level: One will stop suddenly at the top exit, as though he's dropped something; while you try to avoid running over him, you're jostled from the rear by the second one, who lifts your wallet.

It's recommended that gentlemen carry their wallets in their jacket's inner pocket, rather than in a rear pants pocket. Likewise, ladies should hold their purses in hand, instead of slung by their strap from the shoulders. (Thieves commonly cut the strap of a dangling purse with a utility knife.)

Should you happen to see everyone leaving a packed métro station following an announcement in French on the public address system, chances are you are witnessing one of their periodic strikes (or grèves). These manifestations occur from time to time when the unions are displeased with government, or during elections. Look at it this way: you'll get a chance to explore sections of Paris you might otherwise have only passed underground!

Maps & Directions

Métro automatique,
ligne Météor.
Station: Gare de Lyon
© F. de La Mure / M.A.E.

Signage in Paris métro stations is abundant and easily followed: every station offers a big plan of the network outside the entrance and several inside. Lines are color-coded and numbered, and are also named according to the city gate — or porte — at the end of the line.

For example, Line 4 running to the north will be indicated as going in the direction of Porte de Clignancourt, while southbound would be Porte d'Orléans. (Some lines may end a few stops beyond the Periphérique, into neighboring suburbs.) Numerous interchanges (correspondances) make it possible to travel throughout the city in a more or less straight line. Châtelet has the longest interconnecting passageway between lines, with a 600-foot long moving sidewalk.

Free maps are also available at most stations, which provide the basics for navigation. If you want detailed breakdowns, we recommend the following, which are available at most newsstands and bookshops:

• Tout Paris par Arrondissement. Small spiral-bound note-book, with index of streets, detailed maps of each arrondissement, and a list of useful addresses. Editions Blay Foldex, priced around € 6.
• Paris Classique par Arrondissement. Pocket-sized, with fold-out map as well as more detailed maps of each arrondissement, and index of streets. Editions L'Indispensable, priced around € 9.

For the latest in subway technology, try the express stations' computerized routefinders: at the touch of a button, you'll be shown four alternative routes to your selected destination, on foot or by public transport.

Online Route Finder

The RATP web site offers an excellent tool (in English or French) to assist in planning your route(s) throughout Paris and its suburbs. Using their convenient form, merely enter the starting and destination points (either by street address, subway stop, or even by monument — such as Tour Eiffel), travel date & time, type of transport desired (bus, rail, tram), and personal preferences. The system will then produce a map suitable for printing, detailed text instructions (lines, stops, and transfers where applicable), estimated travel time, and a button to plan your return trip.